I’m not ashamed to admit: I’m a huge fan of Project Runway (there, I said it).  Something about watching people putting fabrics and materials together to create amazing pieces of clothing intrigues me.  I blame it on my culinary background, where throwing semi-random ingredients together to create an amazing dish fascinates me.  So, when I was approached to do a fashion shoot, I wasn’t sure what to expect – it’s not like the food or product photography I’m accustomed to.  I did my homework and made sure I read every bit of literature to get my head around what I was in for.  With this being the first kind of shoot I’ve ever done to this magnitude, it was nerve-wracking, but through the challenges I experienced, I learned valuable lessons and experienced an end result I am beyond pleased about.

I met the Tranquilista, Kimberly Wilson, after doing a previous shoot for a company that is releasing a DC guidebook that will be coming out TBD, and after reuniting at an event that was being hosted by this company, she discussed the photography for a book launch fête she was hosting (yes, she also writes books) and we talked about the possibility of also working on her upcoming clothing line launch.  It wasn’t something I’ve done before, but I certainly wasn’t opposed to the idea!  She always has a sweet disposition, and every time I’ve left her vicinity, I’ve felt at peace and, well, tranquil.  The model, Allison, works out in San Francisco (I’m jealous) and met Kimberly on a yoga retreat.  She blew my mind in how natural of a model she was – she had never done modeling before!  I was completely spoiled to have a model like her to work with!  Kimberly’s assistant was a fellow yogi, Eden, who was also a great pair of eyes to have around, as she noticed certain things before I even got to them and made my workflow easy.  I figured her clothing line would be a great step in the right direction for my business, and one step closer to shooting Michael Kors… err, I mean Heidi Klum.

You can read all the articles and publications you can get your hands on, but nothing prepares you for the challenges you face in your first clothing shoot!  Especially when you’re starting out, it’s hard to obtain some of the things you need to get going, and one of my biggest challenges is studio space.  Simply put, I don’t have any.  There are a few photographers that rent out their studio space, but trying to coordinate your schedule with theirs gets hairy, and I wasn’t able to get anything concrete on such a limited timeline (as in, only one day to shoot).  Fortunately for me, the designer is a do-it-all, and not only does she design clothing and publish books, she also runs her own yoga studio.  She had a room that wasn’t being occupied, so we converted it for the shoot with my portable seamless.  Another challenge was trying to properly light the subject.  The lights in the studio were adequate, but my single umbrella was going to make lighting tricky.  Plus, lighting products or food is completely different from lighting people!  I have used it before this shoot, so I understood how the lighting was going to work along with natural light from outdoors.  The biggest challenge was post-production: it SUCKED!  Because of my lighting, the white background turned almost a pinkish-gray.  This required a LOT of converting the background to white, which was excruciatingly painful.  Add to that the numerous photos I had to work on, it was an enormous headache!  However, now I’ve got the rhythm and technique down to make future shoots not so tedious.

I was certainly glad for the experience, but more so, for the lessons that resulted from this shoot.  I now understand the amount of time that results in these kinds of shoots, and that all of the time spent editing what was only a four-hour shoot needs to be compensated for.  With that, you must make sure that all of the terms of the agreement for the shoot are established well in advance, so there isn’t any confusion for future shoots and everything gets handled in a timely manner.  Luckily for me, she and I have worked together previously and were able to come to a mutual understanding relatively quickly, so nothing got dragged out, and we have already established terms for the next shoot months in advance.  Aside from that, more equipment is always helpful, especially to get the images that you want, so don’t be afraid to rent or borrow from a photographer buddy.  I was still starting out, so I didn’t have the connections or the equipment back then like I do now, and I know that I’ll be better equipped for my next shoot.  I’ve upgraded my camera and speed light since the previous shoot, which should make things noticeably better.  I’m still dreaming about better strobes and a Pocket Wizard, which are still out of my budget (for now – if I starve myself long enough, I’ll be able to get them), but thankfully I’ve made friends and have the hook-ups.  It’s all about networking!

The shoot was fantastic, and thanks to Eden for the help and Allison for being such a natural and wonderful model.  Because of them, the shoot went without a hitch, and we were extremely productive with a lot of great shots.  Most of all, thanks to Kimberly Wilson, who has been such a great client of mine for these past months.  I’ve had a lot of great work as a result of her, and she’s always such a pleasure to work with!  You can view her yoga and lifestyle clothing line, as well as other photos of the resulting shoot at her website: tranquilit.com. I am always surprised when I have a shoot involving something I never believed I’d get into and enjoy it beyond belief – it didn’t involve photographing food, yet was one of the most fun shoots I’ve had to date!

Next stop: Vanity Fair.

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Model photography is an art, traveling and model photography is a whole different kettle of fish. Not being on your home ground may make you feel uneasy but with some careful planning you can overcome any obstacles real or perceived.

The Movement – a New York dance group shot in Federal Circle, New York City!

The Five W’s

Who, what, when, where, why and how? Answer these questions and you are well on the way to having a successful shoot. Planning is the most important part of any shoot. The old adage applies if you fail to plan you plan to fail, it really is true! I’ve seen many a shoot be bungled because simple obstacles have fouled up a shoot.

Model:  Irene shot in a room at the Luxor in Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

Who?

Who are you going to shoot? Choosing the appropriate models is key. You have a couple of choices, of course if you are working with an agency they will source and supply models for you to shoot. However,  if you are working on your own you have to source your own models with the resources on the Internet you can utilize a site such as Model Mayhem to source models. You have a couple of choices here also, you can either shoot Time For CD (TFCD) a common arrangement between photographers and models where you supply the model with copies of the images for their use as compensation for their services. Alternatively, you can pay the models for their services. In my experience if you are going to do a TFCD arrangement you should opt to source more than one model for a shoot as at times some models are not punctual or don’t show up.

Model releases are an important protection for photographers and should be executed prior to any shoot. A special model release should be executed for anyone under the age of majority. Model releases should generally, allow photographers to use the photos at their discretion, allow photographers to edit photographs and be non-rescindable. Model releases should also clearly state the compensation for the models services and have the signature of the model affixed along with their printed name and address.

Models:  Dennys and Paris – Holiday Inn, Saddlebrook, NJ USA

What?

You should have a concept of your shoot beforehand; this helps you to formulate the shoot in your mind so that you make sure to have all the necessary supplies to have a successful shoot. It is important to know what you are shooting so you have a suitable location. When you have your concept in mind you then shoot with a purpose instead of just randomly. Take your props along, ask models to bring shoot appropriate clothing.  Shooting a model just because they are attractive is a common fault as may gain you a reputation of being a Guy with a Camera (GWC).

Models:  Carla, Alexis, Mark and Paul – Blue Trees Resort, Orlando, FL USA

When?

Shooting times are more important for outdoor shots than indoor shots, if you are using artificial lighting you are free to shoot at any time. If you are using natural lighting you must conform to Mother Nature. Use popular weather sites to find out what climate is like what time sunrise and sunset are so that you don’t  travel to a location to find unsuitable conditions. Choose suitable times that are conductive to models being able to make the shoot in addition to yourself if you have to travel to a location. If you are flying in to shoot be aware of possible travel delays you can check the reliability of any flight at FlightZoo.  Travel arrangements are important and you should have contingencies when flying, if you are driving you have more control of your own destiny, carefully check Google maps for commuting times between all locations. I highly recommend a GPS also, I program all my locations into mine before I leave home!

Member of The Movement dance group in Federal Circle, NYC USA

Where?

When you have a concept of the outcome of your shoot you can then select an appropriate location. Indoor shoots can be done in a studio or an adapted studio, outdoor shoots are best done outside instead of trying to simulate the effect. If you are shooting with an agency they will source a studio for indoor  shots or the location for outdoor shots. If you are shooting with your own personal concept this responsibility now becomes yours. In my own experience I’ve found that a hotel room makes an amazing studio and there are no travel problems in getting there as it is already your hotel room. Residence Inns or similar properties are great because you have your own bedroom and also a separate living room which makes a perfect studio, including a kitchen if you want to simulate shots in a home. If you don’t have this facility in your location, make sure you source a hotel room with 2 queen beds because when it comes to time to shoot you can literally flip one bed onto the other so that you have more space in your room to shoot. The curtain at the back of the room makes a perfect backdrop but more importantly it makes perfect place to hang your own background on with the application of a few clips or even hairpins. Contacting the hotel directly can also be very fruitful, I’ve done this for various hotels and properties such as the Hotel Diva in San Francisco gave me carte blanche for the entire property, they excel at rolling out the red carpet to accommodate virtually any guest request. For  lighting you should carry a couple flash heads, I carry 3 Nikon Speedlights and a SU-800 Remote Commander and they are sufficient to overcome any lighting situation (although I use Nikon primarily, I believe the best choice of equipment is the one that works for you, I also own Canons and Olympus and use them all). You can utilize these on backdrops or even using the armoire with a couple of translucent reflectors wedged between the ceiling and the top of the armoire at 90 degree angles with a remote activated flash placed on the inside to form your very own softbox. However, if you are shooting outdoors in a location that you are unfamiliar with be sure to do your research online, I’ve personally used Opacity, choose unusual sites, nothing ruins a shot like having a tourist like image as your background. Do you legwork on the internet before you even leave home for the shoot.

Models: Wilber, Donna and Jorge – The Diva Studio, West Palm Beach, FL USA

Why?

Why are you shooting? Answer this question and it will help to make sure you have asked the model to  bring the correct clothing for the shoot (if this is not the responsibility of the Agency/Stylist) in addition to seeing if a Make Up Artist (MUA) is required. MUAs can also be source using online resources such as Model Mayhem.  Possible scenes you may shoot are: fashion, haute couture, swimwear, lifestyle to name a few. Swimwear models need to have a suitable body for other models you may be able to use a model that does not have an overused gym membership. For all models the face is important, source a model that is conductive to your purpose.

How!

Shooting persons is has it idiosyncrasies.  If you are shooting on location not only do you have to be a master of shooting the type of location but you must also be a master humorist and psychologist.  To get  the most captivating images you MUST engage the model, they must have not only the concept of your image but they must also get feedback from you as you are the only one that can see the viewfinder unless you are shooting tethered and displaying the images live on a PC.  You should look all around your viewfinder for spoilers in addition to making sure that the model has the ideal post and expression.  I’ve found that instead of telling models “smile” you should have a repertoire of humorous jokes to tell (avoid politics, religion and off color jokes).  You must do all this while having control of your camera so it is important to know your camera well.  Model photography is like a fine dance, you must have a symbiotic relationship with the model to evoke the best results.  It is like a fine dance and you will often have to mimic the pose you want to achieve while operating the camera.  Making that connection and giving feedback will improve your images tremendously.  Practice with a friend or a family member.

Models:  Alice and Chris – Foul Bay Beach, Barbados West Indies

Wrap up!

With all the above elements addressed the next most important thing is production of final photographs.  Models are always excited to see the final product and you should give them a date that you can   reasonable process the images in. Under no circumstances should you provide the RAW images to the model and only provide them to the agency if expressly requested. Providing RAW images to models shows that you have no pride in your work. You should edit the photographs and provide only those images that you truly feel show the quality of your work. Don’t feel overwhelmed, you’ll realize that the process of model photography provides a few more issues than any other type of photography, inanimate objects do not have egos/feeling so you need to be a capable photographer in addition to a psychologist. I’ll leave you with the 3 most important words in model photography: plan, plan, plan!

PHOTO CREDITS

Photos listed from top down.

3 “Model:  Edric Hunter’s Point, Queens, NY, USA”

6 “Model:  Carla – Blue Trees Resort, Orlando, FL USA”

8 “Model: Manfred train depot near Saddlebrook, NJ USA”

9 “Models:  Wilber, Donna and Jorge – The Diva Studio, West Palm Beach, FL USA”

11 “Model:  Alexis – The Radisson San Juan, San Juan, Puerto Rico”

13 “Model: Wilber – Train depot near the Davie Blvd Tri-Rail stop in Fort Lauderdale, FL USA”

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Photo by: Roc Herm

Photo by: Olivier

Photo by: Michael Creagh

Photo by: Graphistolage David

Photo by: Florencia Mazza

Photo by: Cámara Oscura

Photo by: Ashburn Eng

Photo by: Susan Anderson

Photo  by: Orgut Cayli

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Camera: Canon 5D

Lens: 24-70 L

Exposure: 1/60, f4

Flash:  Falcom 200 ff

About the Artists:

Andrey Yakovlev was born and grew up in Izhevsk city, Russia. He has taken up photography since 1980. In 1990 he took 2 awards in all-Russian contests. In 1991 according to possibilities of perestroika he set up his own studio and started to implement his creative ideas: photography in glossy magazines, photo-exhibitions, shootings of video clips, and organization of model school.  He is a three-times laureate of prestige award “The Best in Profession”. Family tandem Andrey-Lily was put together in 1998. In 2006 Lili took the First prize in XVI Moscow International Festival of Advertising.

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I have been working in the camera department of motion pictures since I was 18.  I didn’t start shooting stills seriously until about 2006, but I loved it immediately and have been pursuing it ever since.

I always try to create a relaxed environment.  I like to joke around on set a lot. Sometimes I end up ruining my own shots by making the model laugh but it’s important to me that everyone has fun.  I also like to make the most of everyone’s talents.  If I am working with someone whose artistic ability I respect I try to stay open to their interpretation of the concept and take the best parts into the final image.

I currently shoot almost exclusively with a Canon 5d Mark II and L series lenses.  I prefer to shoot with primes whenever possible.  I love choosing a lens and then making the shot, as opposed to fiddling with the zoom while trying to think about the concept.  Zooms are such a double-edged sword to me.  They are obviously inherently convenient but they end up being a distraction.  If I can fiddle with the frame I do, endlessly.  In the past I have shot with various Canon SLRs both film and digital as well as a Hasselblad 501cm.

I work with as many as three assistants and a full team of hair, makeup and wardrobe people. I think the most important thing is to have the appropriate number of people.  Having too many people around is a distraction, and not having enough help can keep you from getting a shot. I generally shoot about 200 images per 4 or 5 I am going to use.  This generally comes from being open to interpretation of the concept and trying a few different things other than the shot I have in my mind.  Some of my favorite shots have come from setting up the shot I wanted and then walking around it to see what else was there.

My inspiration often comes from song lyrics.  I love the somewhat vague yet powerful emotions that incredible lyrics can both contain and produce.   My favorites to draw from are AFI and The Smashing Pumpkins.  Other times I get inspired from finding a particular piece of clothing or a certain prop.  I try to keep my eyes open for additions to shoots anywhere I go. Richard Avedon’s In the American West inspires me constantly.  Not so much in subject matter but in concept.  I feel something from looking at almost all of his images.  The simplicity and effectiveness is just amazing.  I also love the work of Sally Mann and James Nachtwey.

My biggest challenges I face are accepting that I have all the tools I need to do almost anything I need to.  I love reading about new gear and thinking how I could use it instead of buckling down and getting the most out of what I already have.  I think this problem applies to a huge amount of photographers both amateur and professional.

For those of you who are beginners, two really important things are having something to say and then mastering the technical aspects of photography so that they don’t get it the way of the art.  I totally believe in experimentation and chance occurrences but I think it’s ridiculous to use them as a substitution for knowing the fundamentals.

Ryan Muirhead Photography

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Image by Mikkel Bache

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Image by Victor Eredel

Image by Shoot Me Photographers and Production

Image by James Craig

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Image by Michel Rajkovic

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Image by Carsten Jamrow

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